Ferdinand Berthoud unveils limited edition versions of the FB1 chronometer with rare techniques and spectacular hand-made finishes. The Chronomètre FB1, the brand's first modern-era watch was awarded with the Aiguille d'Or al GPHG 2016, the Oscar of haute horlogerie. Originally presented in white gold with titanium lugs (reference FB1.1) and with rose gold and ceramic lugs (reference FB1.2). The new collection, unveiled on the occasion of SIHH 2019, called "Oeuvre d'Or" is a new artistic interpretation of his original creation, made up of limited editions in rose or white gold and with diamonds set with exclusive hand-applied decorations.
The dial is meticulously handcrafted, caption "haut / bas" (up / down) indicates the power reserve and the writing "Ferdinand Berthoud, Chronomètre, Val-de-Travers Suisse" (the valley where the workshop is located of the brand), is followed by the individual number indicating the limited edition.
The hands of the rose gold version have blued gold for the hours, minutes and power reserve indication, and blued bronze for the seconds hand.
For the limited edition in white gold, these are in black nickel plated gold and bronze. As with previous versions of the Chronomètre FB1, the octagonal case measures 44mm x 13mm and is inspired by Ferdinand Berthoud's marine watches. The white gold version is set with gems, with baguette diamonds adorning the crown and flanks of the cases, rather than the portholes used for earlier versions.
The case back offers an unobstructed view of the movement which is beautifully crafted and finished. Inside, the magnificent caliber FB-T FC3 features a pillar construction, the classic architecture used in marine chronometers.
All parts are mounted between two plates fastened together with pillars, instead of having a plate and bridges screwed tightly. For greater precision, the movement is regulated by an oversized tourbillon driven by a suspended chain “drive” mechanism. The latter serves to provide a constant force to the escapement for the entire execution time of the movement.
Technically speaking, the FB-T.FC3 caliber comprises no fewer than 1.119 parts. It runs at 21.600 vibrations per hour with a 53-hour power reserve. The Ferdinand Berthoud “Oeuvre d'Or” collection consists of two limited and numbered editions of five watches. The price is approx 282.500 EURO for the version in white gold with diamonds e of approximately EUR 258.000 for the rose gold version.