Il Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 has combined the sporty and daring aesthetics that characterize the collection Navy with a complicated movement and refined decorations. Now the Maison Breguet has declined the rose gold model with a slate-colored gold dial.
By creating the Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887, Breguet has intertwined three threads of its history. First of all, the legitimacy of producing a tourbillon, an invention patented by its founder Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801. Following its legacy of equally important complication watches: the Marine 5887 not only features a state-of-the-art tourbillon, but also a perpetual calendar and an indication of the equation of time. Finally, by combining these two historical pillars of the Maison in a single timepiece Navy, Breguet recalls that in 1815 the King Louis VXIII named its founder Watchmaker of the Marine Royale, making him the official watchmaker of the French Navy.
To underline the close relationship between the line Navy and the sea, the guillochage draws the crests of the waves in the center of the gold dial. Roman numerals applied, like the hands Breguet a apple, are in rose gold. From the bottom of the case you can see the design of a flagship of the French Navy, RoyalLouis, ornament of the bridges of the movement. Spread over the four decks, the design comes to life thanks to the meticulous chiseled details on each of them. This work must be carried out with the utmost precision to ensure that the image strokes are perfectly aligned once the movement has been edited. On the barrel drum there is a wind rose, also engraved by hand. The peripheral oscillating weight in platinum, guilloche and with the name engraved Breguet, offers a complete view of the whole movement and its decorations.
Il Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante it has two minute hands, one for civil time and the other for solar time. At the heart of the movement is a cam on a sapphire crystal disc, which rotates every year, faithfully reproducing the cycle of the equation of time. This transparent disc, on which the months are marked on the periphery, reveals the tourbillon placed underneath. The mechanism is completed with a differential gearing. The ingenious solution lies in its ability to combine two mechanical sources of information to indicate a single result. The indication of the calendar minutes is reproduced by the main train of the watch. The value of the equation of time is provided by a feeler that follows the traces of the cam. In this way, the differential actually applies the solar time calculation formula (civil time plus equation of time), indicated by the solar minute hand. Thanks to the two minute hands, the user can comfortably read the calendar time and the solar time together.
The running equation of this watch Navy it is associated with a perpetual calendar. It takes into account the irregularities of the calendar cycle in the four years, the months of 30 or 31 days and the month of February with 28 days or 29 in the case of the leap year. The indication of this calendar, unique in the collections of Breguet, comes from a mechanism with a new concept. The day of the week and month are indicated in small windows rather than hands. The date is indicated by a retrograde hand. This turns on the arc of the circle until the end of the month, instantly returning to the first day of the following month in the middle of the night.
The movement of this Grand Complications model is a declination of the extra-flat caliber 581 self-winding equipped with a tourbillon. The basic notions, on which the patent of Abraham-Louis Breguet, remain unchanged: the regulation elements of the clock, the balance wheel, the balance spring and the escapement, are located inside a cage that performs one revolution per minute, thus balancing the gear difference caused by the gravitational force.
Modern technologies have played an important role in the conception of this tourbillon, in fact its cage is in titanium and the hairspring, in addition to the escape wheel, in silicon. As the construction of the movement has been rethought, the rotation of the cage is achieved by the dragging of a peripheral gear wheel. The tourbillon and all of its components seem to float in space. The barrel has not escaped a downsizing of the thickness. By digging a groove around the drum and keeping it with three bearings placed on the outside, the designers at Breguet were able to reduce the thickness by 25%.
To combine the power reserve with the other indications on the dial, this is readable via a pressure gauge type indicator at VIII o'clock. The complexity of this spectacular timepiece is the result of the precious know-how of the watchmakers and craftsman Breguet. Price 209.500 EURO.