Two years ago, Vacheron Constantin launched the collection Fiftysix, inspired by a model of 1956 Ref. 6073 (photo below), which was the first water-resistant automatic watch produced by the maison. The collection was designed to capture the current mood of vintage watches and appeal to a younger audience.
Positioned as a model entry level, il Fiftysix was touted as a retro-contemporary, relaxed and cosmopolitan timepiece. Launched in three models in 2018 - Automatic with date, Automatic with day / date and power reserve indicator and Complete Calendar with precision moon phase, the collection Fiftysix more recently also included a tourbillon model, available in 40mm steel and rose gold cases with a monochromatic blue cole dial.
During this unprecedented “virtual” edition of Watches & Wonders, Vacheron Constantin features a new sepia brown dial for the FIFTYSIX COMPLETE CALENDAR and for the FIFTYSIX AUTOMATIC LOADING TIME AND DATE, sEnhancing the collection's relaxed vintage mood, the warm brown dials are housed in 40mm rose gold cases and come with a matching brown calfskin strap with beige stitching. As for the movement, case and dial layout, nothing has changed.
FIFTYSIX COMPLETE CALENDAR
With day, date and month indications, as well as a precision moon phase that requires no adjustment for 122 years, the complete calendar of Vacheron Constantin it is the most complete and complex model of the range Fiftysix. A triple calendar, there are two windows for the day of the week and month just below 12 o'clock and an opening for the moon phase at 6 o'clock. The date is displayed by an additional gold arrowhead hand and positioned on the outer perimeter of the dial, a format also known as the pointer date.
Like its 1956 ancestor, the dial is protected with a raised crystal, now made of sapphire rather than Plexiglas or mineral glass. One of the distinctive features of the collection is the sector-type dial with its capitular ring, very much in tune with the watches of the 50s. Echoing the rose gold case, the applied Arabic numerals are also made of rose gold as well as the indexes which are also treated with luminescent material, such as the hour and minute hands. The rich brown dial features opaline finishes.
The 18K rose gold case features the distinctive and extremely elegant shape of the family Fiftysix. Designed to capture elements reminiscent of the brand's emblem, the Maltese cross, the lugs are designed to represent the four limbs of the cross and provide an almost tonneau-like support for the round bezel and dial. It measures 40mm with a height of 11.6mm and is beautifully finished with glossy surfaces.
Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback beats the self-winding caliber 2460 QCl / 1 di Vacheron with the hallmark of the Hallmark of Geneva. The openwork rotor in 22k rose gold is designed to represent, once again, the emblematic Maltese cross. The finishing touch, which affirms the more casual and vintage mood of this model is the matching brown calfskin strap with beige stitching and an 18K rose gold buckle with a half cross design. Price 36.100 EURO.
FIFTYSIX AUTOMATIC LOADING TIME AND DATE
Perhaps the only true “entry-level” model in the rarefied universe of watches Vacheron Constantin this is Fiftysix Self-winding comes with this rich brown dial to display the time and date functions.
Like all models Fiftysix, the dial features the distinctive layout with an outer minute and second trace and an inner black and white trace. The brown dial is decorated with opal finishes and the large gold applied Arabic numerals are interspersed with shiny gold hour markers representing the odd numbers. The date window at 3 o'clock is discreet and has a brown background to match the dial. In keeping with its function as a timepiece for everyday use, the hands are luminescent.
The rose gold case is 40mm in diameter but is thinner than the full calendar at only 9.6mm thick. What differs here, however, is the movement. The automatic winding of the FiftySix it was clearly intended as the “entry-level” option for the brand. For this reason, this timepiece is equipped with a movement manufactured by ValFleurier di Richemont, although it features specific bridges and more detailed decoration, including the Maltese cross-shaped oscillating weight in openwork 22k gold.
The watch features a matching brown calfskin strap with beige stitching and an 18K rose gold half Maltese cross buckle. Price 20.000 EURO.