Two years ago, Vacheron Constantin launched the collection Fiftysix, inspired by a model of 1956 Ref. 6073 (photo below),which was the house's first water-resistant automatic watch. The collection is designed to capture the current mood of vintage watches and attract a younger audience.
Positioned as a model entry-level, the Fiftysix it was advertised as a retro-contemporary timepiece, relaxed and with cosmopolitan style. Launched in three models in 2018 – Automatic with date, Automatic with day/date and power reserve indicator and Complete calendar with precision lunar phase, the collection Fiftysix it has also more recently included a tourbillon model, available in 40mm steel and rose gold cases with a blue cole monochrome dial.
During this unprecedented "virtual" edition of Watches & Wonders, Vacheron Constantin features a new sepia brown dial for theFIFTYSIX FULL CALENDAR and for theFIFTYSIX AUTOMATIC LOADING TIME AND DATE, sottolineando the relaxed vintage mood of the collection, the warm brown dials are housed in 40 mm rose gold cases and are equipped with a brown calfskin strap combined with beige seams. As for the movement, case and layout of the dial, nothing has changed.
FIFTYSIX FULL CALENDAR
With day, date and month indications, as well as a precision moon phase that does not require adjustments for 122 years, the full calendar of Vacheron Constantin is the most complete and complex model in the range Fiftysix. A triple calendar, there are two windows for the day of the week and the month just below 12 o'm and an opening for the moon phase at 6. The date is displayed by an additional gold arrowhead hand and placed on the outer perimeter of the dial, a format also known as the pointer date.
Like its 1956 ancestor, the dial is protected with a raised crystal, now made of sapphire instead of plexiglas or mineral glass. One of the distinctive features of the collection is the sector-type dial with its chapter ring, very much in tune with the watches of the 1950s. Echoing the rose gold case, the applied Arabic numerals are always made of rose gold as well as indices that are also treated with luminescent material, such as hour and minute hands. The rich brown dial has matte finishes.
The 18K rose gold case features the distinctive and extremely elegant shape of the family Fiftysix. Designed to capture elements that remind you of the brand's emblem, the Maltese cross, the fins are designed to represent the four limbs of the cross and provide almost tonneau support for the round bezel and dial. It measures 40 mm with a height of 11.6 mm and is beautifully finished with glossy surfaces.
Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback beats the self-winding caliber 2460 QCl/1 of Vacheron with the guarantee mark of the Geneva Punch. The 22k rose gold perforated rotor is designed to represent, once again, the emblematic maltese cross. The final touch, which affirms the most casual and vintage mood of this model is the brown calfskin strap combined with beige seams and an 18-carat rose gold buckle with a half-cross design. price 36,100 euros.
FIFTYSIX AUTOMATIC LOADING TIME AND DATE
Perhaps the only true "entry-level" model in the rarefied clock universe Vacheron Constantin it's this Fiftysix supplied with this rich brown dial to display time and date functions.
Like all models Fiftysix, the dial has a distinctive layout with an external track of minutes and seconds and an inner black-and-white track. The brown dial is decorated with opaline finishes, and the large Arabic numerals applied in gold are interspersed with glossy gold indices representing odd numbers. The date window at 3 o'clock is discreet and has a brown background in combination with the dial. In line with its function as a timepiece for daily use, the hands are luminescent.
The rose gold case has a diameter of 40 mm but is thinner than the complete calendar with a thickness of only 9.6 mm. What differs here, though, is movement. The automatic charging of theFiftySix was clearly understood as the "entry-level" option for the brand. For this reason, this timepiece is equipped with a movement produced byValFleurier of Richemont, although it features specific bridges and more detailed decoration, including Malta's cross-shaped oscillating mass in perforated 22k gold.
The watch features a brown calfskin strap paired with beige seams and an 18-carat rose gold buckle with half a Maltese cross. price 20,000 euros.