In all these years of manufacturing attendance, the question I received most often, from friends, friends and acquaintances, was: which watch do you recommend? If I prefer not to give suggestions to ladies due to inevitable sexist inadequares, for males a vademcum is useful to avoid ugly sòle shots. I therefore find it beneficial to inspire a critical approach to choice, which is virtuous middle ground between the emotional surge and the brain pippone.

Two necessary premises. First of all, we specify that the watch should not be understood as an investment, but as a lasting good. By durability I mean a good that can preserve its intrinsic value, if not commercial. Which is no small feat. Let's say that, contrary to what is believed, the watch is not an accessory, as can be a bow tie, scarf or wallet; he's a leader. That is, it dresses a part of the body that has specific measures and with which it must agree.

sure the watch has its own harmony, which depends only on its own criteria. Functional harmony, which concerns the consonance between ends and means, the choice of materials and functions in relation to the destination; formal harmony, which relates to the relationship between the shape/size of the case and the shape/size of the caliber. A professional diver is designed to ply the depths above the underwater wetsuit, so sea monster measurements will also be justified. A dress watch will have to slide discreetly under the cuff of the shirt, so it is good to be smaller and thinner than the sporty Rolex that we like so much.

We will be able to observe a case of 43.2 millimetres in diameter, apparently plethora – like that of theIWC Portoghese Hand-Wound 8 Days – dress perfectly the caliber that animates it. On the contrary, seeing a more content only 41mm time, look clumsy bracalone if called to dress a very small movement – as for example in the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Ultra Slim, where the GP01800 measures 30 mm, engine that was also chosen because it was larger than the previous 26mm GP03300. Then there is the shape of the caliber, which often does not follow that of the case. We are always a little moved when we can admire through the caseback a movement that is sartorially embedded even between the edges and curves that embrace it, as in the past Gondolo Tourbillon 5101p by Patek Philippe and in the Tank Cartier Collection Privée à heures sautantes or enjoy it without veils as in the recent and exquisite Skeletonized Tank Cintrée. However, as anticipated, the watch lives in relation to the wrist that carries it. For complexion and complexion. The model that's good for my partner or my fiancée can stonate about me and vice versa. Take that into account.

All this clarified, there are 5 moments – I will call them Phases in dessequio to our Premier – that I always suggest exploring scrupulously before hunting sound money. Four of these are unquestionably your prerogative – whether you are experienced or not – one requires specific skills. Let's see them together.

Step 1: The watch must please at first glance. Lightning strikes are essential. You can learn to appreciate an object over time, even to take care of it for a lifetime, but if it hasn't electrocuted us immediately, something will always be missing.

Step 2:Once all the magnets of our gaze have been highlighted, skimme with the intended use. What timepiece do I need? What do I need it for? To tickle my vanity or to tease the interest of some passing Vesper? There are those who say that the watch often makes the difference between pampering and petting, but we firmly distance ourselves from these sexist reviews. More pragmatic reasoning for employment. If I'm going to wear it on the occasion of my looming wedding, I'll certainly avoid a rough field watch; if the instrument is forced to accompany me into the woods of Transylvania for a hunt for the catch with the Kurzhaar, perhaps it is appropriate to discard the dressy. Cool Deepsea Rolex and Panerai Luminor Submersible if I want to reach the Mariana Trench or even just snorkel at Poltu Quatu, but if I have to take the time on the ride when I run in karts in Rozzano, they will perhaps be little acconci.

Step 3: Objective quality and blazon. Here you will need an expert, to evaluate caliber, finishes, construction solidity, prestige of the brand. Trend suggestions – even those led by the so-called high society – are not always reliable, unless you settle for an "aspirational" and "exhibiting" purchase. A watch can be beautiful, precise, well made and patrician... at the same time: let us take advantage of it!

Step 4: At this point a tax sorting: the budget. How much money do we keep in the bag? How willing are we really to put on the plate? Needless to knock on Richard Mille shop windows if we don't even have the money to make a monkey dance (any reference to the Perpetual Passion team is purely wanted). More dignified to admire of crumbs, pretending to read the plaque dedicated to the patriot Francesco Restelli.

Step 5: Wrist test. The advance of e-commerce, of online shopping, will soon colonize even the most traditional sectors of luxury, such as Haute Horlogerie. It is futile to cling to the "culture of waiting", to the "rite of the boutique", to "taste the purchase": those who buy today – and especially those who buy tomorrow – with the tasting of the purchase, water the Amazon package. But thank God it won't be our problem. Because we know that nothing clarifies the correctness of a choice such as seeing the reference on the wrist. When you have, through the first 4 stages, selected with acribia two and only two watches, wear them, ask your wife to vote her favorite... and by exclusion you will find the right one.