This new edition of the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin is simply stunning. It is the first time that the 15202 will be available with a case made entirely of 950 platinum as well as a smoky green dial. A watch destined to enter the history of the Le Brassus brand.
Born in the 1972, the Royal Oak it was a disruptive clock. A watch that defined a new genre, that of the luxury sports watch with integrated bracelet. That of the stainless steel watch that combines sportiness and haute horlogerie. And if it was originally hyped in advertisements at the time for being a stainless steel watch, Audemars Piguet quickly introduced editions in steel and gold or solid gold. However, the original Royal Oak “Jumbo” 5402 was never made in platinum.
To find a Royal Oak Jumbo exclusively in platinum we have to go back to the year 2000, with the reference 14802 PT (photo below). In the context of its 125th anniversary, Audemars Piguet has created several prototypes for a very special watch, an extra-thin model with a solid platinum case and bracelet, equipped with a granular blue stone dial and which should have a special decoration of the movement. The initial intention was to produce 125 units, however retailers have expressed hesitation regarding the very high final price. Eventually they were made only 8 watches, with movements without specific decorations.
As for the modern version of the Royal Oak, the reference 15202 which was launched in 2012 for the 40th anniversary of the model, there have been numerous variations, including stainless steel, rose gold, yellow gold, titanium, and platinum or white gold. But a 15202 was never made entirely of platinum. The brand had recently created an all-platinum Jumbo for Japanese retailer Yoshida, the 15206PT (pictured below), but with a stone dial and diamond hour markers.
The new 15202PT
The bases of the Royal Oak Extra-Thin are obviously always present, in addition to being now made of 950 platinum, the case of this new edition retains all the codes of the Royal Oak. This means identical proportions, with 39mm in diameter and 8.1mm in height. Additionally, the case and bezel finish is the same, with vertically brushed flat surfaces and polished accents on the corners and sides of the bezel. The 6-sided screws are still white gold with a shiny surface and the case is still water resistant to 50 meters. All in all, material aside, there aren't many differences to report from a 15202ST.
What changes, however, is the weight of the watch, as platinum is approximately 2.5 times heavier than stainless steel. As such, the new Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Platinum it's a 250-plus gram watch, but thanks to its integrated bracelet, the weight is fairly well distributed around the wrist and overall, the timepiece is really balanced. Another difference is in color and luster, as platinum reflects light differently and has a slightly lighter and colder tone than stainless steel.
What really matters with this new one Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin 15202PT is the dial. For some years now, Audemars Piguet has been using the so-called "smoky" shaded dials in its collections, mainly on Royal Oak e Code 11.59. The titanium version of the Royal Oak launched in 2018 already showed that a gradient color was a great match with the sharpness of the case. And this new platinum edition brings back the smoky concept, but also adds something new, or at least removes something iconic: the motif "petite tapestriesSo often associated with this watch, but not always, as there have been multiple editions with textured or brushed dials.
To contrast the cold and bright color of the case, Audemars Piguet here he opted for a smoky green color, the big news for this collection, combined with a sun-brushed motif that enhances the color in the central part of the dial. The color is quite alluring in the metal, going from a vivid green tone to almost black under certain conditions. This color, combined with the new dial finish, really sets this watch apart. For the rest, the classic elements of the dial have been retained, such as the luminescent hands and indices in white gold, as well as the logos. The date is printed on a disc in the same shade as the dial.
This new Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin 15202PT it is completed by the iconic integrated bracelet, identical to other editions of this watch, except for the material. Under the sapphire caseback we find the caliber 2121 extra-thin self-winding, an in-house movement measuring just 3.05mm high. Again, nothing new, as this has been the movement associated with this collection for several years now. We thus find the same characteristics, a frequency of 2.75Hz, a power reserve of 40 hours, a bidirectional rotor in gold 21K with annular ring functioning on four rubies and balance wheel with variable inertia blocks.
With this new Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet has introduced another collectible "must have" that will be extremely difficult to acquire.
The beauty of this edition lies in its relative discretion, thanks to the use of platinum, in contrast to its exclusivity and its superb green dial. The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Platinum Green Dial (reference 15202PT.OO.1240PT.01) will not be a limited edition, at least not in number. However, it will be produced in small quantities, not exceeding 100 pieces / year. It will only be available in boutiques Audemars Piguet starting from April 2021. The price will be around 100.000 EURO.