This new edition of the Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin is simply stunning. This is the first time that the 15202 will be available with a case entirely made of 950 platinum as well as a smoked green dial. A watch destined to enter the history of the Brand of Le Brassus.
Born in 1972, the Royal Oak was a disruptive clock. A watch that has defined a new genre, that of the luxury sports watch with integrated bracelet. That of the stainless steel watch that combines sportsmanship and high watchmaking. And if it was originally exalted in advertisements at the time for being a stainless steel watch, Audemars Piguet quickly introduced steel and gold or full gold editions. However, the original Royal Oak "Jumbo" 5402 was never made of platinum.
To find a Royal Oak Jumbo exclusively in platinum we have to go back to the year 2000, with the reference 14802 PT (photo below). In the context of its 125th anniversary, Audemars Piguet he created several prototypes for a very special watch, an extra-thin model with a solid platinum case and bracelet, equipped with a granular blue stone dial and which should have a special decoration of the movement. The initial intention was to produce 125 units, however retailers expressed hesitation about the very high final price. In the end, they were realized only 8 watches, with movements without specific decorations.
As for the modern version of the Royal Oak, reference 15202 which was launched in 2012 for the 40th anniversary of the model, there have been numerous variants, including stainless steel, rose gold, yellow gold, titanium, and platinum, or white gold. But never has a 15202 been made entirely of platinum. The brand had recently created an all-platinum Jumbo for Japanese retailer Yoshida, the 15206PT (photo below), but with a stone dial and diamond indices.
The new 15202PT
The bases of the Royal Oak Extra-Thin are obviously always present, in addition to being now made of 950 platinum, the case of this new edition retains all the codes of the Royal Oak. This means identical proportions, with 39 mm in diameter and 8.1 mm in height. In addition, the finish of the case and bezel is the same, with vertically brushed flat surfaces and glossy accents on the corners and sides of the bezel. The 6-sided screws are still in white gold with a glossy surface and the case is still waterproof up to 50 meters. All in all, material aside, there are not many differences to report compared to a 15202ST.
What changes, however, is the weight of the watch, as platinum is about 2.5 times heavier than stainless steel. As such, the new Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin Platinum it is a watch of over 250 grams, but thanks to its built-in bracelet, the weight is quite well distributed around the wrist and, overall, the timepiece is really balanced. Another difference concerns color and shine, as platinum reflects light differently and has a slightly clearer and colder tone than stainless steel.
What really matters with this new Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin 15202PT is the dial. For some years Audemars Piguet has been using the so-called "smoked" shaded dials in its collections, mainly onRoyal Oak e Code 11.59. The titanium version of the Royal Oak launched in 2018 already showed that a gradient color was a great match with the sharpness of the case. And this new platinum edition brings back the smoky concept, but it also adds something new, or at least removes something iconic: the "small tapestry" so often associated with this watch, but not always, since there have been multiple editions with texturized or brushed dials.
To contrast the cold and bright color of the case, Audemars Piguet here he opted for a smoky green color, the great novelty for this collection, combined with a brushed soleil pattern that enhances the color in the middle of the dial. The color is quite fascinating in metal, moving from a vivid green tone to almost black under certain conditions. This color, combined with the new dial finish, really distinguishes this watch. For the rest, the classic elements of the dial have been retained, such as the hands and luminescent indices in white gold, as well as the logos. The date is printed on a disc of the same tone as the dial.
This new Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin 15202PT it is completed by the iconic integrated bracelet, identical to other editions of this watch, with the exception of the material. Under the sapphire caseback we find the caliber 2121 extra-thin auto-charge, an in-house movement of only 3.05 mm in height. Again, nothing new, as this is the movement associated with this collection for several years now. This gives us the same characteristics, a frequency of 2.75Hz, a 40-hour power reserve, a two-way gold rotor 21K with ring ring working on four rubies and barbell with blocks of variable inertia.
With this new Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet has introduced another collectible "must have" that will be extremely difficult to acquire.
The beauty of this edition lies in its relative discretion, thanks to the use of platinum, in contrast to its exclusivity and its superb green dial. The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin Platinum Platinum Green Dial (reference 15202PT. OO.1240PT.01) will not be a limited edition, at least not in the number. However, it will be produced in small quantities, no later than 100 pieces/year. It will only be available at boutiques Audemars Piguet as of April 2021. The price will be about 100,000 EUROS.