A Lange & Söhne writes a new chapter in the fascinating life of his iconic Lange 1 with the release of the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar. At first glance, the overall layout of this new model with the Lange 1 Tourbillon perpetual calendar is almost identical. The eye-catching asymmetry of the Lange 1, with its large date window at 11 o'clock, the large hour and minute counter on the right and the smaller moon phase display disc at 7 o'clock, retain their original positions.
Using the same approach taken on the Lange 1 Tourbillon perpetual calendar, the months are arranged on a ring on the periphery of the dial that advances once a month, indicated by the gold arrow applied at 6 o'clock. This innovation challenged Lange's engineers because advancing the ring at the end of each month requires much more power than traditional solutions. The days of the week are retrograde and positioned on the left side of the dial, and the leap year indication is enclosed in a triangular aperture at 6 o'clock.
The perpetual calendar Lange 1 It also features the moon phase display with small seconds, but has rotated the crescent-shaped aperture to a vertical position and integrated the day / night indicator via a shaded blue disc. The moon, made of white or pink gold depending on the case material, is positioned on a solid gold disc with blue gradation. This means that the golden moon appears against a lighter blue sky during the day and a dark blue starry sky at night. Like all of Lange's moon phase watches, the mechanism is designed to be extremely accurate and will require a single day setting in 122.6 years.
The Lange 1 perpetual calendar has a diameter of 41.9mm and a height of 12.1mm, only one-tenth of a millimeter thinner, so it is apparently no thinner. Available in rose gold with a solid silver gray dial and in white gold with a solid rose gold dial, the details on the dials vary depending on the case material.
The rose gold / gray dial combination features rose gold Roman numerals applied to the hour and minute disc. Rose gold is also used to frame the large date window, the triangular month indicator and the hands. The dial prints are white, and unlike the white gold model, the rose gold model features luminescent material on the hour and minute hands, hour markers and even the small seconds track. The rose gold is presented on a maroon leather strap with a rose gold pin buckle.
The white gold model, limited to 150 pieces, with its spectacular solid pink gold dial, which touches the salmon color, relies on rhodium-plated white gold for the hands and the double-framed date window. There is no luminescent material on this model, and it is presented on a dark brown leather strap with an 18K white gold pointed buckle.
The new automatic movement L021.3 is the sixty-seventh caliber of manufacture of Swaddle and is based on the L021.1 of the Lange 1 Daymatic. The L021.3 has been updated with a newly developed winding mechanism with a one-way rotor in 21k gold and an additional centrifugal mass in platinum. The cam balancer operates at 21.600 V / h and the power reserve is 50 hours.
As you would expect, the typical finishes of the Swaddle can be admired everywhere: the plates and bridges in untreated German silver are decorated with Glashütte ribs, the balance wheel is hand-engraved with a beautiful floral pattern, the gold settings are fixed by thermally blued screws and, the rotor in gold, with the brand name engraved in relief, features a hand-made satin decoration.
Il Lange Perpetual Calendar 1 in white gold (reference 345.056) is limited to 150 pieces and will be retailed for 109.000 EURO. The Lange Perpetual Calendar 1 in rose gold (reference 345.033) is not limited and will be sold for 98.000 EURO.