“The Explorer saga” | The complete history of the Rolex Explorer II

Here we are at the second part of our in-depth study related to the Rolex Explorer, one of the best tool watches ever produced. After having led you to discover the references and the history of the first born of the Explorer family, today we are talking about the Explorer II and its evolution about 50 years after its introduction.

EXPLORER II ref. 1655 (1971-1985)

The first Explorer II was presented in 1971 with the reference 1655. Compared to its sibling, the Explorer, this model was designed for professional use not only by climbers and mountaineers, but also by those who venture into the darkest corners of the globe, into caves or polar regions: speleologists, volcanologists or land explorers. Characteristics of this model, in addition to the larger case compared to the Explorer 1016, are a fixed 24-hour graduated bezel and an orange 24-hour hand . These two elements allow the time to be read in 24-hour format , especially in total darkness.

The reference 1655, called 'Freccione' by collectors or 'Steve McQueen' (although he never wore one), was equipped with the automatic calibers 1570 and 1575 and the hand was not independent but linked to that of the hours. The 4omm case was waterproof to a depth of 100 meters and was fitted with a glass in esalite. For collectors, the dials produced by Rolex have been cataloged in 5 different Marks, while the bezel has 4 Marks that differ from the font adopted for the production.The bracelets provided were of the Oyster type with the following references. In chronological order: 7206 with riveted links, 7836 with folded links and 78360 with solid links.

The Rolex Explorer II reference 1655 has often been photographed on the wrist of real explorers and mountaineers. Among these stand out the legendary Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner, the first ever to reach the top of Mount Everest without the aid of oxygen and climb all fourteen peaks in the world above 8.000 meters, and the French expolar Jean-François Pernette.

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Oliver Shepard's 1655

And it is precisely thanks to the professional use of the Explorer II that this model was revisited in aesthetic and functional terms. In fact, the Rolex Explorer IIs we have known since 1983 are derived in design from a special order commissioned in 1979 by British explorer Oliver Shepard , on the occasion of the Transglobe Expedition , the first longitudinal circumnavigation of the Earth using only surface transport. Although the Explorer 1655 was in production, Shepard had the 1655 fitted with a set of GMT-Master dial and hands due to its ease of readability, compared to the dial and hands of the "arrow".

This very rare and unpublished watch was sold by Antiquorum in 2005 for 43 CHF.

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EXPLORER II ref. 16550 (1985-1989)

From 1983 until about 1990, the first true upgrade for the Rolex Explorer II was introduced with the reference 16550. If the case remains the same size of 40mm, the dial is 'cleaned up' making it much more intuitive and a glossy finish is adopted. in the foreseen colors: black and white. The hands are also rethought: replaced by the 'Mercedes' ones already adopted on the Explorer I and on the Rolex sports models. The 24-hour hand loses its 'arrow' shape to find the one already used for the GMT Master. In addition, the fixed graduated bezel uses a decidedly more pronounced font with squared numbers, which surrounds the new sapphire crystal.

The calibre used is the automatic 3085 movement, which introduces a major innovation: the ability to independently set the 24-hour / GMT hand and use the watch not only as a day/night indicator but also as a second time zone.

Due to a probable manufacturing defect, the first batch of white dials underwent a characteristic color change, taking on a pleasant ivory hue. This peculiarity makes them highly sought-after by Rolex collectors, who commonly refer to them as the "cream" Explorer II 16550.

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EXPLORER II ref. 16750 (1989 – 2011)

In 1989, Rolex introduced the Explorer II Ref. 16570 , which inherited many of the changes made to the reference 16550 and was equipped with the caliber 3185. The dial could be either white or black. On the white dial, the hour markers and hands were no longer silvered as on the reference 16550, but black. This increased contrast and improved visibility.

As evidence of the great versatility of this model and its robustness, the reference 16570 was in production until 2011. Over 20 years of service in which only minor technical improvements and aesthetic details have been made. First, the luminescent material in tritium, which has been replaced by Super Luminova due to the small radioactivity present in that material. In this way we will have the passage of the writing at 6 o'clock from SWISS - T <25 to SWISS (transitional) up to SWISS MADE post 1998 - 1999.

The case also undergoes a small restyling in line with all Rolex watches. In fact, with the serial Y and F of 2003 the holes in correspondence of the lugs disappear, while since 2008 the flange has been laser engraved for its entire circumference "Rolex Rolex Rolex". Starting from 2006 the new caliber 3186 with Parachrom hairspring is introduced. The bracelets provided for this reference are the 78360, the 78790 from 1997 and the 78790A with SEL (Solid End Links) equipped with a safety lever closure.

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EXPLORER II ref. 216570 (2011 - 2021)

In 2011, after twenty years of honorable service, Rolex bid farewell to the reference 16570 with the new Explorer II 216570. It is a decidedly more massive version in every way: the case is increased to 42 mm, becoming one of the most important sports watches from Rolex in terms of size, and the 24-hour hand in the shape of an orange “Arrow” is also introduced in homage to the reference 1655.

Even the hour and minute hands have a more generous size like the indices on the white or black lacquered dial. The luminescent material is Chromalight with long-lasting blue luminescent material.

From a technical point of view, the movement is replaced with the Rolex caliber 3187, also larger in size to fit the new 42mm case. The new movement uses a blue Breguet-type Parachrom hairspring, a large variable inertia balance wheel with Paraflex anti-shock. The 24-hour hand is independently adjustable and the power reserve is 48 hours. In addition to being COSC certified, the caliber 3187 meets the new Rolex precision parameters that provide for a daily deviation of -2 / + 2 seconds with the recessed movement.

The fully satin-finished Oystersteel bracelet (ref. 77210) is a new generation with a new Oysterclasp equipped with “Easylink” for micro-adjustments, which allows the bracelet to be adjusted by approximately 5mm.

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EXPLORER II ref. 226570, The new generation

Ten years after the 216570, at Watches & Wonder 2021, Rolex unveils the new Explorer II reference 226570. What has changed compared to the previous model? Not much, surprising those who – like us – would have expected a return to the more traditional 40 mm case size, but in true Rolex style, small but significant improvements have been made. The new features include the introduction of the new caliber 3285 , with Chronergy escapement, which increases the power reserve from 40 to 70 hours . The case has been slightly redesigned with thinner lugs and a less thick case middle. The bezel has a finer satin finish and the diving scale has a much more pronounced and visible font.

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You still have the option of a black or white dial with PVD-coated indexes. I think the decision not to opt for a ceramic bezel is consistent with the Explorer II's vocation as a tool-watch. Would you ever climb a rock face with a ceramic bezel? In the black-dial version, the 24-hour hand is entirely orange and more visible than the previous version, which was half black and half orange.

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The Explorer II 226570 also features an Oyster bracelet with an Oysterlock safety clasp with folding clasp, designed and patented by Rolex, which prevents any unintentional opening. The selling price of the new models is € 8.150.