To celebrate the 90th anniversary of the company's most iconic model, born in 1931 as a fairly simple watch, Jaeger-LeCoultre announces, for Watches & Wonders 2021, the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Caliber 185 Quadriptyque, a super complication limited to ten pieces in 18k white gold. The Caliber 185 is the world's first four-sided watch and at the same time the most complicated Reverso ever produced, including 11 complications, including a perpetual calendar, minute repetition, and indications of synodic, draconian, and anomalous cycles.
The story of the "complicated" Reverso has its roots in 1991, when in just 500 pieces the Soixantième (photo below) commemoration of the 60th anniversary of the Reverso. the Soixantième he brought with him a larger case known as the large taille and was, most importantly, the first Reverso to be equipped with complications. Five even more complicated reversos were presented later: Reverso Tourbillon, Reverso Répétition Minutes, Reverso Chronographe Rétrograde, Reverso Géographique and Reverso Quantième Perpétuel.
This series of watches was much more than just a bet: it laid the foundations for a production aimed at rediscovering high complications and then redesigning them adapting them to the small boundaries of the rectangular case of the Reverso. The first Duoface models were presented in the early 2000s, then came the models that house the variations of the legendary movement Septantième, Ias double barrel. But the Reverso reached its peak in 2006 with the release of the Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque (photo below).
The case of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Caliber 185 manages to maintain wearable proportions despite complications and reversible case. It measures 51.2 mm long, 31 mm wide and 15.15 mm thick. Despite the reversible case and frame in several parts, the Caliber 185 maintains a water resistance of 30 meters. the Caliber 185 it is based on the innovative solution that debuted in the Triptyque: at midnight, a gold window extends from the movement of the main case to operate a pusher in the case frame, thus advancing all the indications on the four watch dials.
The first face of the Caliber 185 displays the civil time and instant perpetual calendar directions, including the day and month windows at 12 o'm and the two-digit date at 5 a.m. All indications of the perpetual calendar jump at midnight, hence the nickname "instant". The leap year indicator is discreetly hidden on the periphery of the dial to what would traditionally be hour 1. At 7 o'm, in a large opening that extends at the bottom of the case, there is the one-minute flying tourbillon that also serves as an indicator of running seconds. The entire dial is cut at the lathe with nailed pattern or Clou de Paris,then galvanized with a metallic silver color. The dial was also partially skeletonized to reveal the wheels of the day, month and date.
The second face- also cut with a guilloché Pattern Clou de Paris - was more accurately skeletonized to reveal the mechanism of minute repetition, triggered by the trigger on the side of the case, including the centrifugal regulator at 9 o'a.m. and the racks of the ringtone mechanism between 5 am and 7 am. The civil time is again displayed on this dial, this time unorthodox: digital "jump" hours are displayed superimposed on a white minute track, around which rotates a smoked sapphire disc with a red pointer to display minutes. On the entire width of the movement there is a bridge entirely polished in a mirror that supports the mechanism of repeating the minutes, below which are visible the hammers of the trabucco and the gongs of the chime mechanism. The minute repeater has several proprietary JLC technologies: the gongs are attached directly to the crystal itself, first seen in the 2005 Master Minute Repeater Antoine LeCoultre (photo below),which results in a clearer and louder sound. The debut in the Caliber 185 is a new system that eliminates the breaks traditionally heard between groups of chimes of a minute repeater, and particularly prominent in cases where no quarters are played.
The third face is displayed on the inside of the Reverso case frame. For the first time in the history of watchmaking, synodic, draconic and anomalist cycles are displayed in a single watch. The opening at 12 o'm shows a laser-engraved moon being progressively revealed and covered, corresponding to the synodic cycle seen from the northern hemisphere.
The display on the left side of the lower half of the dial shows the drachonic cycle, which indicates the intersection of the Moon's orbit with that of the Earth around the Sun. If the moon and sun counter are aligned horizontally, the Moon, Earth, and Sun are all on the same plane. Also, if the Moon is in the new or full moon phase during this alignment, an eclipse event occurs on Earth. To the right of the drachonic cycle, a representation of the Moon plots an elliptical orbit around an enamelled hemispherical representation of the Earth. This screen shows the anomalist cycle or cycle of variable distances between the Earth and the Moon. When the Moon is in its full phase near its perigee, at the closest point to Earth, the event known as the supermoon occurs.
The fourth face,finally, the "caseback" of the Caliber 185, shows the age of the Moon seen from the southern hemisphere.
The Caliber 185 it is delivered with a presentation box with a built-in mechanism that allows the owner to correct all the clock's calendar and astronomical displays after it has lagged behind by a couple of days. The box itself is equipped with a two-setting crown: the watch is inserted into a frame inside the box, the crown on the box is used to set the number of days elapsed since the last time the watch was worn, then the crown is pulled in second place, allowing a quick adjustment of all the complications of the calendar and astronomical.
The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Caliber 185 Quadriptyque it is a practical watch, to wear every day and is the maximum expression of the legacy of the Reverso. Limited to 10 pieces, the price is provided only on request (provided around 1,400,000 EURO).