How many watches did we see at Watches & Wonders in Geneva? Certainly many, but never enough. Many of those presented we have had the opportunity to try them, photograph them and covet them closely. The PERPETUAL PASSION team has selected 10 favorite watches of this edition of Watches & Wonders2022.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN 222 Historiques, the return of the King
Let's start with the watch that everyone agreed, The Vacheron Constantin 222 Historiques. It is a contemporary reinterpretation of the icononic 222 “Jumbo”, symbol of a watershed era in the history of masion in terms of design. The new Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 has been taken care of in every detail. The 37mm diameter case in yellow gold, adorned with the "Maltese Cross" symbol of the maison, frames the gold-colored dial formed by baton indexes filled with luminescent material. The screwed porthole-type fluted bezel which gives it a water resistance of 50 m. The one-piece tonneau-shaped case continues up to the integrated bracelet that continues to show its robust, functional and sporty spirit with a timeless elegance, thanks to the purity of its lines and the subtlety of its curvature. We are facing the return of an icon, which has made the hearts of many fans beat faster ...
FLEURIER PARMESAN Tonda PF Skeleton, refined contemporary minimalism
The new Tonda Pf Skeleton in 18 ct rose gold and steel / platinum, maintain the purity and sobriety of the Tonda PF collection despite the minimalism deriving from the skeletonization of the dial. In keeping with watchmaking traditions, the dial nevertheless has a contemporary approach. The understated architecture highlights the knurled, polished bezel that beautifully captures the light and the eye, as does the flexible and sliding bracelet design. The Tonda PF Skeleton best combines tradition and technical refinement with the refined design that distinguishes Parmigiani's DNA.
CARTIER Santos Dumont, the decò you do not expect
How could Cartier improve the new Santos Dumon presented in 2018? In a completely unexpected way: by coating the cases in platinum, rose gold and steel with a thin layer of lacquer, smoothed and polished by hand. Treatment that also involved the dials, enriched with a deco motif that gives a great three-dimensionality to the dial. The new Santos Dumont are powered by a hand-wound in-house movement and will be available in limited quantities. The version that surprised us most is the one in rose gold, with lacquered dial and case in beige tone.
PATEK PHILIPPE Travel Time Annual Calendar 5326G, “simply” Patek
One of the models that most convinced us in this edition of Watches & Wonders is the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref.5326G-001, a watch that for the first time combines two complications such as the Annual Calendar and the Travel Time function thanks to a new self-winding caliber that boasts eight patents. To house this unprecedented movement, Patek Philippe has created a new Calatrava case in white gold of 41 mm in diameter with a splendid workmanship Clous de Paris guilloche along the carrure. The black gradient anthracite gray dial on the edge highlights a texture slightly grainy reminiscent of the shells of old cameras.
TUDOR Black Bay Pro, a new adventure companion
When everyone was expecting a new GMT of the Fift-Eight line, Tudor surprised everyone by presenting the Black Bay Pro. A model that draws on the glorious past of Rolex, revisited with the stylistic codes of Tudor. The Black Bay Pro is an entirely new model, featuring a dual time zone, easy to understand thanks to the angular-shaped yellow “Snowflake” hand, which turns the dial every 24 hours. Local time is indicated by another shorter “Snowflake” hand that adjusts in one-hour increments either way. The satin-finished and polished steel case measuring 39 mm in diameter and 14.6 mm thick, is equipped with a fixed 24-hour graduated steel bezel that makes the time zone indication intuitive, also thanks to a design that incorporates the legendary Rolex " freccione "1655.
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Heueres Florales, poetry and dreams at your wrist
When we think of the passing of hours as poetry, we can only think of Van Cleef Arpels. The unprecedented Lady Arpels Heures Florales is inspired by the concept of a floral clock (Horologium Florae), conceived by Charles Linnaeus in his work Botanical Philosophy in 1751. The three-dimensional dial of the clock stages the passing of time with poetry thanks to the opening and closing of twelve corollas. The reading of the time thus becomes a show to the rhythm of the flowers that open and close, renewing the scenario of the dial every 60 minutes. The reading of the time is completed by the display of the minutes, readable through an opening placed along the carrure. .
MOSER & CIE Endeavor Center Seconds Concept Lime Green, the art of simplicity
Maybe green is one of our favorite colors, maybe it's a Moser & Cie., But we loved it even before seeing it on the wrist during the Watches & Wonders in Geneva. The dial is still the protagonist of Moser watches, but with this model the maison wanted to give a touch of modernity to the traditional artistic form of enamelling, thanks to an engraved motif with a “hammered” texture. Three different color pigments have been fused together on a gold base. This model has a 40mm steel case and is equipped with an automatic movement with a double spiral and a power reserve of 70 hours.
GRAND SEIKO Evolution 9 Spring Drive GMT, a samurai for the most demanding travelers
The new Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT, ref. SBGE283 and SBGE285, represent a design change from the Japanese house. The first impression, that of a heavy and bulky watch on the wrist is blown away once on the wrist. These new Grand Seiko are in fact built around the brand's high-intensity titanium, making them sturdy yet extremely light on the wrist. The case has been redesigned with softer and less clear-cut profiles. The diameter measures 41 mm, with a height of 13,9 mm. The dial is framed by a fixed brushed bezel with a 24h scale for reading the GMT time. Our preferred configuration is the one with a light gray dial with an intricate pattern inspired by the morning fog in winter in the Shinshu region, the city where all Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches are made.
CARTIER Masse Mystérieuse, unexpected encounter
The Masse Mystérieuse is another watch that has made a lot of talk about itself, bringing together enthusiasts more linked to design, with those more technical and lovers of refined mechanics. How can you not be stunned by the magic of a mobile caliber, concentrated in a skeletonized oscillating weight? The whole movement seems suspended, as in the absence of gravity. All the components that receive energy from the movement, transmission and adjustment are integrated into the rotor, which is also skeletonized to give full visibility to this animated show. In the center, an ultra-sophisticated differential system taken from the automotive industry has been integrated into the movement to prevent the time display from being determined by the mass. The mysterious rotor applies an innovative principle that ensures the same vertical position of the balance wheel by turning in the two directions and at an irregular speed.
ORIS ProPilot X Caliber 400
Oris showed up at Watches & Wonders with a new impetus. The new ProPilot X Caliber 400 are watches with their own personality. In the three variants of dials proposed (salmon, blue and gray), the one that stands out in contrast with the austerity of the titanium case and bracelet and the clear lines that distinguish them, is the one with a salmon dial. On the technical side, the ProPilot X Caliber 400 is one of the new generations of Oris house movements. The Caliber 400 all feature high levels of anti-magnetism, a five-day power reserve and a 10-year warranty!
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